Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and style designer most famous because the founder of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Company. Osti’s products have been a mixture of his personal innovations and design concepts he got from finding out military clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product improvements 5.1 Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.4 Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.8 Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He grew to become a graphic designer and labored in the advertising business. His career in the fashion industry began within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt assortment featuring positioned prints. He was the first to make use of new techniques just like the four-color course of and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the supply to design a whole Males’s collection and grew to become an equity associate in the corporate he would identify ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Firm’).
Throughout this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a creative philosophy entirely primarily based on experimentation. The first innovation he could be liable for in the clothes trade was garment dyeing, a course of that fully revolutionized the sector. It was primarily based upon the idea of various materials in completed garments reacting in another way to the identical dye bath. Osti discovered that garment dyeing creates attention-grabbing tone-on-tone results. This explicit dyeing method turned typical for Osti’s C.P. Firm. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new model alongside the existing CP Firm and CP Firm Baby collections.
Ongoing analysis on finishing methods and supplies led to yet one more clothing line in 1982: Stone Island. The primary assortment was made completely from a revolutionary new fabric that impressed from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this highly resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by means of stone washing. This new assortment was so successful that it bought out at each location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his team devoted themselves to product improvement and communication strategies for the company. In 1985, he became the editor of CP Journal, an extra-large format catalog/journal that was sold at newspaper stands. It featured photographs of every garment in the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. lifestyle perfectly. A circulation of forty,000 copies per collection proved that this unusual promoting tool was certainly effective. It started a pattern that might later be followed by many different firms in the industry.
1987 was an necessary year in Osti’s profession. He invented and presented Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the materials waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new feel and look to the garments. In the identical year Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. At this time all mills use this process for processing woolen textiles, the identical process Osti invented in 1987.
The 12 months additionally noticed the beginning of the color changing Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological analysis to create this new fabric which modified colour by temperature variations. That same year, his constant commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invitation to characterize the Italian clothing business at an event commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his personal 15th 12 months in the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held contained in the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a brand new technique of communication with the public through the CP Firm sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The company also confirmed its help of the Rainforest Basis, the muse spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose function was to lift worldwide awareness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP retailer in New York’s historical Flatiron Constructing, plus the launch of one more iconic garment within the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an modern materials, which was the fruit of technological research performed in Japan. The material combined waterproof fabric with a very thin layer of glass microspheres, which reflected even the weakest mild sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new brand was characterized by another exclusive material, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, might be used with raw edge stitching. The following year, Osti founded Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that may reap the advantages of the expertise and successes accrued from 20 yearsvalue of formal and technical innovations. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti began a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a collection of image-defining garments.
Just two years later in 1998, a new firm was based to produce and distribute the OM Project brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothing would also be characterized by way of innovative fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant material product of polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose natural look is derived from its cotton component while its other component
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Magazine Defender – a canvas made of polyester and carbon fibers whose extremely resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “city armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it extremely resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti started the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a brand new line of technical pants referred to as Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used on this assortment, a particular mix of Kevlar stood out specifically; its increased softness and functionality made it acceptable to its application in garment production.
Amongst Osti’s final projects was the ICD line. Created in 2000 because of a collaboration with Levi’s, it provided an unlimited array of excessive performance technical outerwear. This collection was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, thanks to an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came equipped with a cellular phone, mp3 participant, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first commercial instance of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on in the present day via Ed Lehan. Additionally the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which incorporates 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment finishing corporations from around the world.
4-course of printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-primarily based company commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, one thing he had never accomplished earlier than. At the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and artistic movements of the time and profoundly aware of the modifications happening in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of fashion, Osti’s background in promoting led him to use his graphics know-how as a place to begin for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed consequence, strategies like silkscreen, placed prints, 4-course of printing, photocopy, and so on. It was the first time anything like that was finished in Italy. I do not forget that I had to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself before convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I found that two completely different materials absorbed and reacted in another way to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ effects.” This is the basis of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized all the industry on the time, both because of the unusual look it produced and due to the significant lower in prices it represented.
Main characteristics: every garment is dyed, instead of the supplies they were product of. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ effects, and simplification of dyeing process.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this particular course of, which was initially used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the procedure by way of research and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the trade.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, grew to become very talked-about in the textile business. They took noble and conventional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a brand new look and texture, allowing them to drape and fall in another way. The special rubber coating not only enhanced their natural characteristics, but additionally grants increased performance, akin to resistance to water and allows them to remain adaptable to patterns.
Primary traits: traditional supplies looked renewed and responded in a brand new solution to put on; also they grew to become extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket made from a revolutionary material that changes colour with temperature variations because of its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacketcan be highly waterproof and windproof.
Main characteristics: jacket adjustments color by temperature variation. *e.g., pink to gray)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first introduced in the LEFT HAND assortment and is manufactured from pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a standard technique, initially used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskinhand and wonderful breath capacity.
Most important characteristics: pure deerskin look, but warmer really feel.
This material was also used in the LEFT HAND collection. Its principal traits are complete resistance to water and wear and up to eighty% protection from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time within the F/W 1996 collection by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this combination of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-ninety three)